Didsbury must be too highbrow for a shed. So, we presume, believes Jim Ramsbottom, owner of the popular Albert’s Shed in Castlefield and now of Albert’s (more traditionally christened) Restaurant and Bar in West Didsbury. Rowena Forbes investigates...

Since opening in spring 2010, Albert’s Shed’s younger sister (both named after Jim’s uncle) has provoked a rather mixed reaction – at least, amongst the local social media fraternity, whose Twitterings on the topic range from adoration to derision. Still, the usual curiosity surrounding a new Didsbury restaurant, along with the masterfully timed opening of a venue with a substantial sun terrace, has ensured a rampant opening trade.

When R and I arrived on a summery Friday evening, the outside drinks area was already packed by 7pm, while the outdoor tables reserved for dining were exactly that – reserved. We compromised with a seat next to the window, where the bustle continued as tables throughout the roomy venue rapidly filled. Swigging San Miguel, we surveyed the classic black and white décor; both beer and surroundings were crisp and pleasant. Slick blue neon lighting probably engenders either love or hate, depending on how much of a nostalgic hold 80s films of the Cocktail variety have on you.

I enjoyed my starter of rabbit gnocchi (£6.50), which combined salty pancetta and strips of rabbit with a smooth cream and wine sauce and richly droolsome wild mushrooms. R’s oriental pork belly (£6) was also a winner: tender and drizzled with a light, clean sweet-and-soy dressing.

A bottle of Sancerre arrived that, at £38, was one of the pricier options from a wine list dotted with mid-range favourites. Lightly lemony with a flinty mineral edge, it was also confusingly deposited in a wine cooler bereft of both ice and cold water. A magic refrigerating device, or a lapse of concentration? Service, although friendly, did seem a little confused at times – five people served us over the course of the meal, some of whom repeated previously asked questions, and one of whom offered us garlic bread that belonged to another table.

Foodwise, however, I had no complaints. My hefty chunk of salmon (£14.50), generously marinated in lemon and dill and served with a jug of rather rich hollandaise sauce, was fresh and well cooked. Seasonal asparagus and a tower of potato and crème fraiche salad, cheekily enlivened by strips of lemon zest, ensured I was filled to the brim. R tried mushroom risotto (£8); again, those full-flavoured wild mushrooms gave a satisfying earthiness to the dish.

Finally, I squeezed in an orange flower pannacotta (£5.50), which was pleasingly creamy, although the delicate dish was a little overcome by punch-packing rosemary leaves in the orange compote.

Verdict: A few imaginative splashes amongst a menu of old favourites were mostly well executed, while surroundings are sure to be a summertime favourite. Let’s hope any teething problems soon disappear.

Albert’s Restaurant and Bar, 120-122 Barlow Moor Road, West Didsbury M20 2PU
0161 434 8289 / http://albertsdidsbury.com

When planning a wedding, the sheer number of decisions to make can be rather daunting. We may not be able to help pick your partner, but we hope we can make the wine selection a little easier with this great selection of elegant Chardonnays.

If you want a memorable, delicious alternative to champagne, this Undurraga Brut NV (£8.99 or down to £5.99 when you buy two at Majestic) could prove to be an inspired choice. Made at one of Chile’s oldest wineries, Undurraga have been producing sparkling wine for over thirty years. Sourced from the Maipo Valley and made only with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, this is a new world take on an old world classic. Aromas of pineapple and citrus flavours complement the refreshing acidity with a lively mousse. Perfect as an aperitif or with pâté and vol-au-vent.

A subtly textured, deliciously crisp and fruity Chardonnay, with surprising finesse. The Domaine Bégude Chardonnay 2008 (£7.99 from Waitrose)  is a cool-climate French Chardonnay is grown following organic and biodynamic principles on the slopes of the Pyrenees. Long cool vinification and ageing in oak barrels give a fruity wine with great body and a rounded texture. If there’s a herby Mediterranean chicken dish on the menu, this Chardonnay will always be on the cards.

From the winery that put the Napa Valley on the map, the Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay 2006 (£14.99 from Majestic and Everywine.co.uk) is a great example of what can be produced in the cooler parts of Carneros. The delicate yet rich and complex wine unfolds with aromas of apple and nectarine with hints of butterscotch and crème brûlée – a myriad of flavours that are going to impress any guest at your wedding.

Rowena Forbes searches for fine food – and finds familiar faces – at Bramhall’s latest contemporary Indian restaurant…

With Mother’s Day fast approaching, why not treat your mum to something that will tantalise her taste buds. We have a fantastic list of wines that will offer something to suit all tastes.

If you’re cooking up a traditional roast chicken for your mother on her special day, then why not try a bottle of Chiroubles 2007, Georges Duboeuf (£8.99 at Waitrose) to match it. It is made from 100 per cent Gamay, which is the unique grape variety used in the Beaujolais region to produce their celebrated wines. This refined medium-bodied red shows delicate red cherry and wild strawberry aromas with subtle yet silky tannins.

The Saint Mont Château de Sabazan 2006 (£12.99 at Nicolas) is the perfect partner to a decadent chocolate cake, so why not treat your mum to this perfect combination and really show her how much she means to you. The extra ripeness from the grapes contributes to the richness of the wine, and the beautifully balanced dark fruit and vanilla flavours will enhance every bite of that delicious chocolate cake. Alternatively, this will work wonders with roast lamb.

Now that spring is just around the corner, maybe a zesty white is more fitting, in which case the Nobilo Regional Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (£8.49 at Sainsbury’s, Morrisons, Asda and Tesco) would definitely fit the bill. This newly released 2009 vintage is bursting with flavours of lemon, passion fruit and melon, and is perfect as an aperitif before that roast chicken that’s in the oven!

If you think only champagne will cut it, treat your mum to a bottle of M&S Oudinot Rosé Champagne NV (£22.99 at M&S). This lively, luxurious rosé champagne with ripe strawberries has a hint of cream and a crisp, dry finish – the ideal choice for someone who needs a little spoiling.

So show your mum how much you care with one of these fantastic wines this Mother’s Day.

I first experienced a champagne dinner at The Midland Hotel in Manchester seven years ago, when I’ll confess I knew little more about champagne other than it was fizzy, fun and French...

Since then, thanks to gaining a few Wine and Spirits Education Trust qualifications, supported by plenty of informal tastings with friends and family, my knowledge of all alcoholic grape juices has improved, and I’m looking forward to enjoying a more informed experience at my second Midland champagne dinner this month. Not that you have to be a wine professional in order to attend; experts and novices alike are welcomed – although a healthy interest in the fizzy stuff should ensure you get the most from the evening.

The champagne dinners are served in the hotel’s wonderfully ornate yet intimate French restaurant, which has long been acclaimed for its fine dining experience, and was recently named Manchester’s best restaurant in the 2010 Michelin Guide. Each food course is matched to a different glass of bubbly from the featured champagne house of the evening, accompanied by an introductory talk from a representative of the restaurant’s champagne supplier.

On my last visit, I found that deliberately limited numbers and personal service made me feel more like a guest than a customer at this exclusive black tie event. The other attendees were a mix of locals and out-of-towners treating themselves to a special occasion, and regular diners, some of whom would eat at the French up to four times a week. M&S Simply Food meals suddenly seem like a budget option...

March’s dinner on the 17th promises to be particularly special, as it features not only Julian MacDonald from Bibendum Wines, but also a representative from the champagne house itself: Alice Paillard. Alice is the daughter of the man who gives the youngest champagne house in France its name: Bruno Palliard.

This family-owned, independent label from Reims has around half of its 25 hectares of vineyard in Grand Crus and features on the wine lists of many Michelin-starred establishments across the globe. Not bad for a man who created his first champagnes in 1981 in a rented cellar with grapes purchased from other independent producers!

During the evening, we expect to enjoy Bruno Paillard’s flagship Brut Première Cuvée, an elegantly mineral yet fully fruity champagne with both citrus and light red fruit flavours, rounded out with toasty almond. A Rosé Première Cuvée promises sweeter red fruit flavours, while the Blanc de Blancs Réserve Privée is famous for crisper notes of citrus and apple, balanced by floral aromas and a white peach finish.

Personally, I’m particularly hoping we get a chance to sample the 1990 NPU, billed as an exceptional vintage. After all, it’s not every day you get to sample some of the world’s most famous champagnes – although admittedly, for regular frequenters of the Midland champagne dinners, it is every two to three months.

The Midland Hotel, Peter Street, Manchester M60 2DS
0161 236 3333
www.qhotels.co.uk

With Valentine’s Day fast approaching it’s time to treat yourself and your loved ones to something a little bit special. Whether you’re settling down for a cosy night in, having a quick toast before you get your glad rags on, or embarking on a girls-only party, there’s something here to suit all occasions. 

Why not woo your sweetheart this Valentine’s Day with a bottle of Banrock Station Sparkling Shiraz Rosé. The freshly bottled pink fizz, available in Tesco and Waitrose(£9.15), is a perfect gift or accompaniment to your romantic meal.
 

If it’s something still and seductive you’re after, then treat your other half to a bottle of Morgon 2007, Château de Pizay, from Majestic (£8.99). This elegant and light red wine has a nose dominated by blackberries and cherries and a silky smooth palate – the perfect accompaniment to any night in. 

Stuck with what to buy your partner this year and looking for something manly and rugged? Why not treat your guy to a bottle of The Bandit Shiraz Tempranillo 2008 (£8.99) at Ocado from February – an easy and effective way to show how much you care. 

And finally, why not turn those lights down low and truly set the mood with a bottle of Warre's Otima 10 year Tawny Port from Waitrose at (£11.39) or Oddbins for (£14.49). It’s an ideal accompaniment to a decadent rich chocolate pudding and a wonderful way to end your romantic evening. 

So whether you’re settling down for a night of home comforts or hitting the town, enjoy one if these luscious suggestions to really show your loved ones how much you care and celebrate 14 February with a bang.

As the Sangam curry empire continues to expand across Manchester, Rowena Forbes visits its latest city centre territory… 

If there’s a recipe for success in this town, it’s probably to be found in the cookbook of Mohammed Salim. Mr Salim – as many of his clientele know him – opened his first restaurant in Rusholme in 1991. Unlike many of its neighbouring venues, Sangam has since then remained a constant landmark at the top of Manchester’s curry mile. 

Further Sangam restaurants followed in Didsbury and Heald Green, with the former suburb also housing Mr Salim’s Thai venue, Sanuk, and Indian takeaway, Sajna. The jewel in the curry empire’s crown, swanky Swadesh, then opened its doors in Bowdon – and now the city centre has its own version to compete against the likes of Zouk, EastZEast and Shimla Pinks. 

Swadesh Manchester is placed firmly between the original Sangam and Bowdon’s Swadesh in terms of its range of menu, class of atmosphere and, of course, price. Located in what was previously Thai and Chinese restaurant and bar Ikan on Portland Street, the new Swadesh has a large kitchen that is partially visible from the dining area through frosted glass, and high ceilings that make the already spacious venue seem vast. 

Shiny floors, a large backlit bar and décor featuring metallic colours might have made the restaurant appear a little brassy, but creamy walls, well-positioned greenery, leather seats and gently draped curtains partitioning the huge room soften it into cool, airy elegance. 

M and I shunned our usual curry accompaniment of lager in favour of a red from the rather reasonable wine list: a suitably spicy Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Shiraz (2000). We maintained the popadum tradition, however, with which we particularly enjoyed the balanced sweet-spice flavours of a smooth, fruity chutney. The popadums themselves were exceptionally light and crisp – the secret being, we were informed, cutting them into quarters before frying them, which uses less oil and ensures the popadum is crispy throughout, instead of softer in the middle. There’s a trade secret for you. 

I started with King Prawn Puri (£6.90), a delicate offering of fresh, fibrous prawns wrapped in flaky unleavened bread with a creamy, coconut sauce, sharpened slightly with a touch of lime juice. M enjoyed a Makhmali Tikka (£3.90), surprisingly moist strips of chicken breast served on skewers in a tasty garlic, mint and green chilli sauce, with a subtle earthy undertone of cardamon. 

For mains, M was persuaded away from his usual safe Bhuna territory into the unfamiliar realms of a Reshmi Masala (£8.50), a subtle flavoured, relatively mild chicken dish whose richness was enhanced by low-fat yoghurt and ground cashew nuts, rather than oil and cream. I tried the hot Chicken Jalali (£8.50), prepared using the darker thigh meat so often lauded as more flavourful than chicken breast by the Indian connection of my family. Although not as spicy as I had anticipated, there was a good depth of flavour, with ginger and coriander dominating the dish, plus a rather piquant element of surprise in the use of sun-dried tomato. 

A side dish of Dal Makhani (£3.90) was probably my favourite part of the main course – various types of lentils cooked slowly in a sinfully rich, buttery sauce with tomato and onion flavours. Other accompaniments of pilau rice (£2.50) and a garlic naan (£2.30) were of the usual acceptable curry house standard. 

Verdict: Against the existing backdrop of upmarket city centre Indian eateries, Swadesh should hold its own well, with subtle flavours replacing harsh heat in its dishes, the usual Sangam-style friendly service, and an all-you-can-eat lunchtime buffet that is likely to attract enough business diners to justify the expansive venue. 

Swadesh Manchester, 98 Portland Street, Manchester M1 4GX
0161 236 1313/0161 236 1999
www.swadeshrestaurant.com

How is one of West Didsbury’s longest-established restaurants coping with its recent expansion? Rowena Forbes visits to find out…

I’ll confess: it’s difficult for me to remain unbiased about the Great Kathmandu. Since first moving to Didsbury a decade ago, the aromas emanating from its ever-busy doors in the evenings have led me to abandon all thoughts of cooking my own dinner on countless occasions. I’ve often expressed relief that the restaurant has never added a home delivery service to its takeaway menu, as if it had I’d probably be the size of my own house by now.

Having contentedly occupied the same cosy little Burton Road venue since opening in 1987, the Great Kathmandu’s owner, Chandra Kumar, may have surprised some locals when he finally took over the large, dilapidated video shop on the corner of Cavendish Road next door and expanded into it this autumn. Perhaps more surprising, the original venue remains untouched, its rather outdated décor appearing sadly abandoned outside weekends as it serves principally as a secondary seating area for when its larger, grander neighbour is full.

The new venue looks smart in a just-decorated traditional-Nepalese-curry-house kind of way: crisp white tablecloths and scarlet napkins embroidered in gold with the venue’s name, matching bright red chairs and a duskier red carpet patterned with black and gold. Pale walls are dotted with pictures and statues of Hindu gods and goddesses, plus the requisite Himalayan peaks, while golden metal lanterns throw speckles of light across the walls through their patterned holes.

Our traditional openers of Cobra beer and four popadums (50p each) were as welcome as ever, the lovely light popadums speckled with tasty spices and the usual threesome of accompanying sauces satisfyingly creamy, crunchy and tangy in turn. We then shared a starter of Chicken Chilli (£6.80), which certainly lived up to its tongue-tingling name: strips of chicken fried crispy on the outside, served in a medley of spices and small, green chillies, garnished with fresh coriander. It was served with an old-fashioned starter salad of chopped lettuce, tomato and cucumber, and a soft nan (£1.60) to take the edge off the heat.

After a bit of a wait for our mains (the takeaway service remains as popular as ever), we tucked into Dil-Khusa Masala (£7.10) and Kathmandu Bhotowan (£6.95), both served with chicken, plus a plain nan and boiled basmati rice (£1.60 each). Dil-Khusa means ‘happy heart’, and its plump chicken breast stuffed with scarlet-spiced minced lamb doused in a creamy tomato-based sauce thickened with ground cashew nuts certainly won over both my heart and belly. The dry-fried Bhotowan was a good accompaniment, dark in colour, delicately spiced and tomato-free.

In recent years, some new Mancunian venues (Shimla Pinks, East Z East) have taken curry into the realms of fine dining, with ‘East meets West’ contemporary décor and a ‘less is more’ emphasis on subtle flavours, as well as a balancing-act presentation of ingredients on white china, rather than silvery metal platters spilling over with spicy sauce. Some might say such venues have rather taken the shine off places like the Great Kathmandu, which previously held the crown of bringing ‘something different’ (ie. a clearly identifiable range of different tasty dishes) to the traditional curry house table.

However, instead of trying to compete with these newcomers, the Great Kathmandu has stuck to its roots. Chandra carries out the same daytime routine at the restaurant every day, checking on the kitchen and the dining room, preparing the herbs and spices and making sure everything is ready for the busy evening ahead. In such ways does the Kathmandu retain its niche as a comfortable neighbourhood venue that regulars bring friends and family to again and again, safe in the knowledge that their cravings for spice will be tended to in a familiar, flavourful fashion.

Verdict: The new-look Kathmandu remains a favourite with regulars – albeit more of them at once than in its previous incarnation – and its bright, spacious new venue may just tempt a few fresh faces through its still-ever-busy doors.

Great Kathmandu Restaurant, 140 Burton Road, West Didsbury,
Manchester M20 1JQ
0161 434 6413/0161 445 2145 / www.greatkathmandu.com

2009 is speeding by and soon it will be the festive season. Christmas shopping can be chilly and stressful, so why not treat yourself to a warming tipple when you get home? Draw the curtains, light the fire and pour a glass of something warming to lighten even the darkest evening.

Why not try a little fizz to cheer you up when the winter blues descend? Not as pricey as Champagne, Crémant de Bourgogne, Cave de Lugny NV (available from Oddbins for £11.49) is a less expensive alternative in these cash-strapped times! It’s an elegant wine with restrained mineral fruit – dry, fresh and citrusy with a soft mousse and creamy notes at the finish. This is a fantastic match to fish and chips if you don’t want to cook! 

If you fancy something slightly different, why not try a drop of port? Port is usually limited to Christmas-time sipping, but what a waste! In Portugal they drink port all through the year and the Warre's Otima 10-year Tawny Port (available from Oddbins for £14.49, or £11.59 when a case is bought) can be enjoyed either as an aperitif, lightly chilled and served with olives and nuts, or as an after-dinner digestive with cheese or chocolate depending on your personal preference. A rich tawny colour, with an excellent nose of nuts and hints of mature fruit, it’s light and delicate on the palate and beautifully rounded, with hints of dried fruits, and a long elegant finish.

 Tesco sells the Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (£9.99), a beautifully rich and elegant wine that displays lots of blackberry characters with a hint of dark chocolate. This wine would be an ideal partner to a rich game pie.

And these autumnal nights wouldn’t be complete without a recommendation for a heavy duty red wine. Altano Douro Valley Red 2006 (available from Waitrose for £5.99) has a crystalline black cherry hue with sour cherry nose. The palate yields black pepper in the rear with baking cherries and liquorice emerging later. Try with a robust meaty stew to warm the cockles.

Italian name, Indian cuisine – what exactly is the new incarnation of Altrincham’s Azzuré all about?

Tucked away in a dainty little niche off the main high street, the Goose Green area of Altrincham is a destination in its own right for those in the know.

Boutique shops, bars and restaurants nestle around a pretty little square that has a quaint, sleepy feel during the day and livens up at night courtesy of a clientele looking for food, drink and the happy side of life. Until a few months ago, it was Gallic and Mediterranean menus that dominated this European-style quarter; however, Italy has now given way to India as a new curry house is spicing up the nightlife of the square.

Previously an Italian eaterie, Azzuré has kept its original name but changed everything else in its transformation into an elegant Indian bar and restaurant. Keeping the original name at first glance seems to be merely a marketing ploy, but a closer look reveals the new owner’s desire to create an Indian restaurant that offers something a little different.

The venue itself is split over two levels: a cosy, yet sophisticated bar downstairs and cheerful, contemporary restaurant upstairs. The surprisingly spacious dining area hints at the venue’s suitability for private and professional functions (the success of which, staff and friends of our magazine can already vouch for, thanks to our own recent party at Azzuré). Indeed, plenty more parties are already in the planning stages: a Bollywood Night with appropriately themed DJ, dancing and dinner is on the cards on Saturday 5 December.  This costs £19.95, with £5 going directly to the breast cancer charity, Genesis Appeal. Christmas bookings are proving popular throughout December.

Dusky oranges and warm saffrons dominate the upstairs décor, echoing the lively colours and flavours of the food. Downstairs offers a softer atmosphere, with spotlights, candles and blue back-lighting over the dark wood bar setting a sultry mood among the rounded leather seats. Predominantly the place to relax over a few drinks, the downstairs bar can sometimes double as a dining space on quieter evenings.

A comprehensive menu offers plenty of the usual favourites, from kormas to vindaloos, along with more unusual dishes in the specialities section, such as rangeela, kushbu, biraan and bazigaar. There are plenty of fish options, from tiger prawns to sea bass; vegetarians are catered for widely outside the usual side orders section, and there’s a good selection of tandoori dishes.

All dishes are prettily presented on crisp white plates with meticulous attention to detail. Try a mixed vegetable starter (£3.10) for a tempting threesome of soft aloo kebab encased in a crumb coating, a crispy onion bhaji with undertones of slightly caramelised sweetness in the fresh fried vegetable, and a traditional tasty vegetable samosa. Or the grilled tiger prawns for £3.75, succulent seafood cooked to the ideal texture, pleasantly firm but juicy, accompanied by a medley of chopped fried onions and red peppers, slightly sweet with a spicy kick.

For mains, the chicken bazigaar (£7.45) is one to try: marinated chicken fillets cooked on a special griddle called a tawa, covered in a rich, tomato-based sauce and finished with plenty of freshly chopped coriander and a liberal sprinkling of sesame seeds. Spiced according to your individual taste, the heat of the spices never overpowers the subtle flavours of the dish, as some chilli-powder-packed curries can do. More traditional mains are similarly well executed: the chicken biriani (£5.95) is wonderfully fragrant and aromatic, with flavours that tickle the senses before a forkful even arrives in your mouth. Its accompanying curry sauce is packed with vegetables and can also be spiced according to your preferred taste.

Desserts are varied too, if rather less traditional, including cheesecake, carrot cake and strawberries and cream, alongside various flavours of ice cream and coffee selections.

Verdict:
The Sunday Special offer of a five-course meal for £9.95 per person offers particularly good value for money, as you can choose from the entire à la carte menu. This is a great opportunity to sample what the new-look Azzuré has to offer.

Takeaway delivery service and online ordering are both available – see the website for details: www.azzurerestaurant.co.uk

Azzuré, 5–7 Goose Green, Altrincham, Cheshire WA14 1DW
0161 929 8571
www.azzurerestaurant.co.uk