Food & Drink
The empire strikes again |
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As the Sangam curry empire continues to expand across Manchester, Rowena Forbes visits its latest city centre territory… If there’s a recipe for success in this town, it’s probably to be found in the cookbook of Mohammed Salim. Mr Salim – as many of his clientele know him – opened his first restaurant in Rusholme in 1991. Unlike many of its neighbouring venues, Sangam has since then remained a constant landmark at the top of Manchester’s curry mile. Further Sangam restaurants followed in Didsbury and Heald Green, with the former suburb also housing Mr Salim’s Thai venue, Sanuk, and Indian takeaway, Sajna. The jewel in the curry empire’s crown, swanky Swadesh, then opened its doors in Bowdon – and now the city centre has its own version to compete against the likes of Zouk, EastZEast and Shimla Pinks. Swadesh Manchester is placed firmly between the original Sangam and Bowdon’s Swadesh in terms of its range of menu, class of atmosphere and, of course, price. Located in what was previously Thai and Chinese restaurant and bar Ikan on Portland Street, the new Swadesh has a large kitchen that is partially visible from the dining area through frosted glass, and high ceilings that make the already spacious venue seem vast. Shiny floors, a large backlit bar and décor featuring metallic colours might have made the restaurant appear a little brassy, but creamy walls, well-positioned greenery, leather seats and gently draped curtains partitioning the huge room soften it into cool, airy elegance. M and I shunned our usual curry accompaniment of lager in favour of a red from the rather reasonable wine list: a suitably spicy Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Shiraz (2000). We maintained the popadum tradition, however, with which we particularly enjoyed the balanced sweet-spice flavours of a smooth, fruity chutney. The popadums themselves were exceptionally light and crisp – the secret being, we were informed, cutting them into quarters before frying them, which uses less oil and ensures the popadum is crispy throughout, instead of softer in the middle. There’s a trade secret for you. I started with King Prawn Puri (£6.90), a delicate offering of fresh, fibrous prawns wrapped in flaky unleavened bread with a creamy, coconut sauce, sharpened slightly with a touch of lime juice. M enjoyed a Makhmali Tikka (£3.90), surprisingly moist strips of chicken breast served on skewers in a tasty garlic, mint and green chilli sauce, with a subtle earthy undertone of cardamon.
A side dish of Dal Makhani (£3.90) was probably my favourite part of the main course – various types of lentils cooked slowly in a sinfully rich, buttery sauce with tomato and onion flavours. Other accompaniments of pilau rice (£2.50) and a garlic naan (£2.30) were of the usual acceptable curry house standard. Verdict: Against the existing backdrop of upmarket city centre Indian eateries, Swadesh should hold its own well, with subtle flavours replacing harsh heat in its dishes, the usual Sangam-style friendly service, and an all-you-can-eat lunchtime buffet that is likely to attract enough business diners to justify the expansive venue. Swadesh Manchester, 98 Portland Street, Manchester M1 4GX
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For mains, M was persuaded away from his usual safe Bhuna territory into the unfamiliar realms of a Reshmi Masala (£8.50), a subtle flavoured, relatively mild chicken dish whose richness was enhanced by low-fat yoghurt and ground cashew nuts, rather than oil and cream. I tried the hot Chicken Jalali (£8.50), prepared using the darker thigh meat so often lauded as more flavourful than chicken breast by the Indian connection of my family. Although not as spicy as I had anticipated, there was a good depth of flavour, with ginger and coriander dominating the dish, plus a rather piquant element of surprise in the use of sun-dried tomato. 
