Food & Drink
A Shed, by any other name… |
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Since opening in spring 2010, Albert’s Shed’s younger sister (both named after Jim’s uncle) has provoked a rather mixed reaction – at least, amongst the local social media fraternity, whose Twitterings on the topic range from adoration to derision. Still, the usual curiosity surrounding a new Didsbury restaurant, along with the masterfully timed opening of a venue with a substantial sun terrace, has ensured a rampant opening trade. When R and I arrived on a summery Friday evening, the outside drinks area was already packed by 7pm, while the outdoor tables reserved for dining were exactly that – reserved. We compromised with a seat next to the window, where the bustle continued as tables throughout the roomy venue rapidly filled. Swigging San Miguel, we surveyed the classic black and white décor; both beer and surroundings were crisp and pleasant. Slick blue neon lighting probably engenders either love or hate, depending on how much of a nostalgic hold 80s films of the Cocktail variety have on you. I enjoyed my starter of rabbit gnocchi (£6.50), which combined salty pancetta and strips of rabbit with a smooth cream and wine sauce and richly droolsome wild mushrooms. R’s oriental pork belly (£6) was also a winner: tender and drizzled with a light, clean sweet-and-soy dressing. A bottle of Sancerre arrived that, at £38, was one of the pricier options from a wine list dotted with mid-range favourites. Lightly lemony with a flinty mineral edge, it was also confusingly deposited in a wine cooler bereft of both ice and cold water. A magic refrigerating device, or a lapse of concentration? Service, although friendly, did seem a little confused at times – five people served us over the course of the meal, some of whom repeated previously asked questions, and one of whom offered us garlic bread that belonged to another table. Foodwise, however, I had no complaints. My hefty chunk of salmon (£14.50), generously marinated in lemon and dill and served with a jug of rather rich hollandaise sauce, was fresh and well cooked. Seasonal asparagus and a tower of potato and crème fraiche salad, cheekily enlivened by strips of lemon zest, ensured I was filled to the brim. R tried mushroom risotto (£8); again, those full-flavoured wild mushrooms gave a satisfying earthiness to the dish. Finally, I squeezed in an orange flower pannacotta (£5.50), which was pleasingly creamy, although the delicate dish was a little overcome by punch-packing rosemary leaves in the orange compote. Verdict: A few imaginative splashes amongst a menu of old favourites were mostly well executed, while surroundings are sure to be a summertime favourite. Let’s hope any teething problems soon disappear. Albert’s Restaurant and Bar, 120-122 Barlow Moor Road, West Didsbury M20 2PU |
